Photoshop to the rescue

Photoshop is such a remarkable tool. Admittedly, it takes a long time to master. For the serious Photographer, however, it is a Godsend.

    Here is an example of using existing photos, creating a sky and stars background, writing a script....then, placing each in a layer above the others, moving them around to where they fit. In each case, making them larger or smaller, tilting them if need be, adding or subtracting color, contrast, light or darkness, then adding a mat around them, if desired.

    Once done, the whole set of layers is saved for later editing, then flattened, and made whatever size and resolution you need for printing or emailing.

    With the exception of Corinn's portrait, I made this whole thing without leaving my chair and computer....Even then, I took her original portrait from the same chair, added a diffused background of a white blossomed tree growing right out side my front door. (I took the tree photo leaning out the door).

    If you have further interest in learning all this, contact me at robertalex@comcast.net  or call me at 601-724-1007.

Proportions

    One of the most difficult parts of Photography to teach successfully is "Proportions"....Yet it comes into play in EVERY photo.

 

    Proportions is the relationship of Width to Height.

 

    First, let me say that width is always stated first....An 8"X10" photo is one that is 8" wide and 10" tall. This is a "vertical" format. (Taller than it is wide).

 

    An 8"X10" photo that is horizontal is correctly expressed as a 10"X8" photo. They are the same number of square inches, but one in an "up and down" photo and the other is a "sidewaya" photo, to use street language.

 

    Always expressing the width first will solve the problem as to which it is, Vertical or Horizontal.

 

    Now, what happens when you change sizes? Say you now want a 5"X7" photo. What is the difference between it and an 8"X10"?

 

    First, the area of a 5"X7" photo is much smaller than an 8"X10". Both are vertical, but there are two major differences.

 

    First, the size is 5x7 or 35 sq. inches in the 5"X7". The 8"X10" photo is 8x10 or 80 sq. inches. (more than double the size of the 5"X7").

 

    Second, the 8"X10" is "fatter" (wider) in relation to the "taller" (narrower) 5"X7" photo, PROPORTIONATELY.

 

    To explain this clearer, say you had an 8"X10" photo and a 1"X10" photo. The 1" wide photo is more like a soda straw than is the 8" wide photo. That is because the PROPORTIONS are different. There is no way to fill an 8"X0" area with a 1"X10" photo.

 

    There is then, no way to make a 5"X7" photo fit an 8"X10" frame....that is, without a mat to fill up the difference. Here, both the size and the proportions are different.

 

    Now, when you start to take a photo....first decide does it need to be horizontal or vertical? A mountain scene might need to be horizontal and a flagpole, vertical.

 

    An alligator horizontal and a tall, pretty girl in a bathing suit, vertical.

 

    Photos can be any size and shape, but the proportions need to be considered when placing on a wall or in an album. Is the wall area most conducive to a tall or wide photo? Will a vertical photo look right alongside an existing horizontal photo. All these are "Proportion" questions.

 

    Now, enlarging or reducing the size of a photo brings on a different type of proportional consideration.

 

    The"Proportions" of a 4"X5" photo, an 8"X10" photo, and a 16"X20" photo are all identical. That's because if you multiply or divide both sides of any of them by the same number, you can eventually make all the same.

 

    Multiply both sides of the 4"X5" by 2 and you get an 8"X10". Do that to the 8"X10" and you get a 16"X20".

 

    For instance, then, you CANNOT make 5"X7" photo out of any of the above without cutting off or adding to some of it....because the PROPORTIONS are different. The relationship of the width to the height is different. In street language, the "SHAPE" of a 5"X7" is proportionately different than the others. An 8"X10" might be called "fatter" and 5"X7" might be referred to as "skinnier", when their "shapes" are compared to each other.

 

    

   

 

   

 

   

   

   

Close-up Photos

Photo Pals:

    Ever so often you may need to take some "Close-up" photos.

    Technically, they are referred to as "Macro" photos.

    These are usually taken within a few inches of the subject.

 

    I once had to make some close-up's of a lady's tooth from 3 inches.

   

    Your digital camera will, doubtless, have a "Macro" position.

   

    If there is not a little picture of a Tulip Icon anywhere around your main OK button on the cameras back, try the Menu button and search for the Tulip....Better still, read your Manual for how to set up Macro.

 

    You will need to, either, set the ISO to correctly adjust the camera to the light level desired, or, as on my Nikon Point and Shoot, there is an "Exposure Compensation" key that lets you make the scene darker or lighter. That's what ISO does.

 

    If you have ISO controls, then set it high for inside available light or lower for outside light levels. Say, ISO 400 inside or ISO 50 for outdoors.

 

    Be sure to choose either Daylight or Incandescent depending on what your light source is.

 

 

    Most digitals will have either brackets or a green light that comes on when you are in focus....Plus the wonderful fact that you can see the image jump in focus. (if it does, correctly).

 

    Marvelously, you can take it, look at it, and do it again until correct. Sample below

 

 

    Your camera will normally take the scene at a High Resolution. Cameras with 12 MP, or so, will usually take it at about 300 dpi. Canon has a different system. This is complicated and I won't go into it unless you have a problem with it. If you do, call me at 601-724-1007.

 

    This high resolution is about what you need for printing. If you want to email them, you need to convert the resolution to 72 dpi and less than 9 inches wide. Call me for instructions.

 

    Good luck with Macro. Tricky, but great, if needed.

Bob A. 

 

Photographing People Together

Photographing people together, or in groups, presents a different set of considerations.

    First, what is the purpose? Let's start with two young people.

    Now, are they in love, or brother and sister, or two siblings of the same sex, such as sisters, or what.

    Keep in mind the other things I have told you....straight line poses for boys, "S" curves for girls. Men/boys usually look best when leaning slightly forward. Take, for instance, athletes are almost always leaning forward....for sure, the military.

    Girls kiss leaning back, and are the one who usually lean back when dancing, etc. Ginger Rogers, dancing with Fred Astaire, said she had to match his every step, mostly going  backward, and in high heels.

    So, it makes sense for the male to lean toward a female, with his head forward and hers back. see below:

Photographing People Together

    Photographing people together, or in groups, presents a different set of considerations.

    First, what is the purpose? Let's start with two young people.

    Now, are they in love, or brother and sister, or two siblings of the same sex, such as sisters, or what.

    Keep in mind the other things I have told you....straight line poses for boys, "S" curves for girls. Men/boys usually look best when leaning slightly forward. Take, for instance, athletes are almost always leaning forward....for sure, the military.

    Girls kiss leaning back, and are the one who usually lean back when dancing, etc. Ginger Rogers, dancing with Fred Astaire, said she had to match his every step, mostly going  backward, and in high heels.

    So, it makes sense for the male to lean toward a female, with his head forward and hers back. see below:

 Now, here is a derivation of that pose with the added sensuality of head and eye angles changed toward each other. This was their portrait just before they were married. People aleays look sensual when they look at the other's lips. (Just threw that in....no extra charge). Be careful, though, in using it, as it is powerful.



Creating a Mood for your Photo.

     Now, I'd like to get into "mood" photography....How to create a viewer reaction. (first of a couple of emails).

    The first thing you must do is become proficient with your camera. Keep experimenting and making several images of each subject, changing poses and light angles to see what works best as a way of life for you.

    Photoshop has opened a door I only dreamed of 50 years ago.

    I, once, (50 years ago) photographed a group of three children, who were the great, great, grandchildren of Greenwood Leflore, the Choctaw Indian Chief for whom the city of Greenwood and Leflore County, MS, are named.

    Their Grandmother wanted them sitting on the porch of Malmaison, Greenwood Leflore's beautiful, big, home. It had burned years before, but she had a nice photo of it.

    I copied the photo, then photographed the children on a standard porch steps.

    I'll keep this short....I exposed a 20X16 of the house, dodging a space where the children would be sitting. Then, in the darkroom, double exposed them into it.

    I oil painted the whole photo, filling in around the children with paint.

    It turned out very nicely, but oh, how much easier that is now with Photoshop.

    That has little to do with "mood" photos, but it just came to mind and I wanted to tell you about it for a reason.

    Sometimes the environment creates a built-in mood.

    A brightly lit scene usually denotes some version of happiness or activity. Darker scenes bring out feelings of anxiety or even fear. Dracula and Frankenstien usually were involved in darker scenes.

    Portraits with dark backgrounds usually bring about "Character" moods. Children are rarely photographed with dark backgrounds, as they are thought of as light-hearted and gay. Gay is a beautiful little English word, meaning happy and light-hearted....not what others would use it to mean. 

    Here, again, Photoshop to the rescue, making it fairly simple to have a suitable background when none is available at the time you took the photo.

    If you are just learning and not proficient in Photoshop, then your choice of a background becomes all important in mood creation.

    Use flowers or greenery for "happy" looks. Mountains, a lake, or trees for tranquil effects. Use landmarks such as a football stadium for excitement.

    Indoors, use a type room which matches the message. Kitchens for cooking, etc. Maybe a den in which to make an athlete's portrait.

    There is a good-sized tree right out side my apartment which has big white blossoms on it. By putting it out-of-focus, it looks somewhat like an Old Masters out of focus floral background and colors can be added if need be, Usually, backgrounds are more high quality looking in a mood photo if they are neutral, and dull, colored. 

    Below is my close friend, Marianne, with that tree as an out-of-focus background.

Using what we've learned so far.

We have discussed the main ideas of utilizing the sun from the rear, when practical....For two main reasons: 1st - the light from the rear lights the hair nicely and even gives the aura of glamour to ANY portrait. It is best used on subjects that you feel could use glamour in a useful way. Babies and young children and more sedate groups or individuals are usually best portrayed in the shade, where the light is gentler (more even) and less contrasty, due to the light bouncing all over the scene. That softens its effect.

Groups are best posed with all persons, in some manner, facing (bodies turned) either toward the center or all looking in the same direction.
2nd reason for sun at their back - Squints are eliminated. When the subjects face the sun, you can count on bad squints and the photo is ruined.

Here is a group with the sun from the rear...

Guaranteeing the correct "look" of a portrait

Friends:

    Today, I want to show you how to guarantee that your portrits will have the "look" that you want, as far as making men look mannish and ladies/girls look feminine, children childlike, athletes look athletic, etc.

    Amazingly, it has more to do with "lines" than anything else.

    You should always photograph men with their body parts in straight lines.

    If you stop and think about it, that's how men do things. Their football fields are marked off in straight lines, Marines stand at attention, golfers "keep that left arm striaght", boxers stand with their arms at right angles, etc.

    Now ladies/girls need to be portrayed in "S" curves. Did you ever see a man desribe his girlfriend's figure by moving his hands up and down like a railroad track, or in a circular motion like a bowling ball? No!, of course NOT, is the answer. He makes a "S" with each hand, up and down, and says. "She's gorgeous".

    So men should be photographed with a hand firmly on a desk or chair, perhaps holding an object like a book or some related object....their upper and lower arms forming a straight lined angle.

    Ladies/girls, on the other hand, should be turned to the side so their curves form "S" curves, with their arms and hands at as many angles as they will bend in "S' curves.

    Athletes and strong men should be photographed from low angles, so they look more dominant. Ladies/girls from level to look their girlish best. Another trick with females is, "if you don't know what to do with something....Hide it behind something". Stand them in front of unwanted distracting objects.

    Ladies/girls feet should be in the shape of a T, with the toe nearest the camera pointed in roughly the camera's direction.

    Photograph men's legs straight or firmly bent, as with one foot on a step higher than the other.

    Last, for now, turn all their bodies to some degree away from the camera. They all look slimmer that way.

    More later. 

Photo Size and Resolution for email and Facebook

Photo friends:

    In order to make your email and Facebook photos look good and move fast, use the following basic figures in regard to file Size and Resolution. Size in inches and Resolution in dpi (dots per inch).

   

    The larger the dpi, the better quality prints will be when printed....but....the slower they will move when being called up.

    The lower the dpi, the faster they will move, but they will NOT print clearly.

    Standard Printing uses 300 dpi.

    Standard email and Facebook use 72 dpi.

    Now, you must have software that will Re-size your photos....change them from whatever they are to what you want them to be.

    Recommended sizes are 9 inches wide, or less. (Height doesn't matter). (Width is stated first).

    Go to Google and search for FREE re-sizing software.

    I, personally, use Adobe Photoshop, but a full Professional version is expensive. eBay constantly has Photoshop Elements for much less and it will do most Sizing and Resolution adjustments easily.
     Click on http://RHAphotoPRO.blogspot.com/ to join us twice a week for more detailed and varied information about how to make Great photos.

     

Making Portraits

PhotoPals:

    How to get started taking great Potraits.

    I like to call it, "Concepts".

    The dictionary says a "Concept" is an Idea, Theory, or a Premise. A plan, on which to build.

    So, our first step in taking Portraits is to have a concept.

    Since I first met 20th Century Fox Head Portrait Photographer, Max Munn Autrey, in 1958, and served as his Gopher at the first Ole Miss 3-day Conference on Professional Photography, the "First Continuing Education Seminar of its kind" in the world, I have built upon a concept I learned from him.

    While the full fledged concept is complicated, the general idea applies to ALL types of Photography.

    It is divided into several parts, which I will strictly, only partially, generalize here.

    • Type subject.    

    • Type Theme and Clothing.     

    • Type Lighting.    

    • Environment.    

    • Use or size.   

    I think you get the idea. No Pro, worth his salt, ever takes a single photo without some premise, on which to proceed.

    The one I use, I have named the "GAHS", or "Golden Age Hollywood Style". This came along with talking movies, when the studios needed something new to accent the new twist in movies....Sound.

    Up until then, Portraits were just glorified snapshots with little dramatic Highlights and Shadows. They just looked like everyone else's.

    The Hollywood Photographers got together and determined that Fresnel Spotlights, as were used in Ocean Lighthouses, to cast bright, long distance lights for ships to see, would fill the bill for audience-attracting, glamorous Portraits.

    The GAHS idea used these Spotlights instead of softer Floodlights.

    Since most folks today don't have, or want, these spotlights, we'll use what we've got....a point and shoot camera with a small flash. Usually that will produce an acceptable image, if we use them correctly.

    For Portraits, get out of the bright sunlight and in the shade, if possible, for outdoor photos. Rotate the subject until the light appears even to your eye. Take a photo. Check your monitor and add or subtract darkness in the camera controls until the monitor image appears correcct. If it is too dark, add "Fill Flash". 

    Below is a photo made just that way with no flash.  

   

    I made this one day when I was just passing by and they called to me, knowing I usually have my Point and Shoot with me. This is about as near to a snapshot as I ever get.

    Note the soft light caused by the porch overhang shade and the slight side light "bouncing" in..not direct. The shadow side of their faces has enough "fill" light bouncing in to be pleasing.

    You will note that I tried to make the photo as near the shape and size I want the finished one to be. In this case, vertical, and the shape of an 8x10. (Width is always spoken of first).

    Take care to hold your camera veritcal, if you want your photos to end up that way. When you always hold the camera horizontal (level), you often waste precious Pixels and hence, sharpness.

    If you join our group and order the $25 Once-Time Payment Membership, you will get, by snail mail, a 30 page CD about the GAHS Style....then for no more payments, an indefinite BONUS of a weekly Public Post on the http://rhaphotoprp.blogspot.com/  Blog with a weekly copy of it on Facebook, PLUS a further, and more important, BONUS of indefinite twice-a week emails that go much deeper into all subjects. Only the CD costs money. All the further Posts are FREE and at our discretion. 
    We hope to hear from you.    

Flowers....Everyone Loves Them

Since everyone loves flowers, let's give them a go.
Now this session is a relatively simple one of just photographing the lily.
How to enhance it and put the lettering on, comes with the twice-a-week, more concentrated course. You need to join up with us for that....Call up the main Blog:   http://rhaphotopro.blogspot.com/  for instructions how to join until I get this Blog upgraded.

For good, pretty much unlimited, photos, you'll need a good point and shoot Digital Camera. I use a Nikon Coolpix L24 14 MB one. They sell for less than $100 at Amazon. That's where I have my book, "Mississippi Moments" listed.
First, choose a day that is btight, but not too glarey. Set your camera on the "Next to the best quality". I use that all the time, as I find the very highest quality level serverly limits the number of images you can get on a card.
Be sure your camera has its "White Balance" or "Color Balance" or "Kelvin Temperature" (all mean the same) set on "Daylight" for correct color. If you take snapshots inside with no flash, be sure to change your camera Color Balance back to "Incandescent".
Walk around the flower and choose an angle that shows its petals best. Choose an angle with a good background.
Be sure your shadow doesn't show in the photo. (The mark of a rank amateur).
Make several different photos, watching the monitor and correcting any mistakes you might have made.
Now the email course will go into enhancement, addition of the mat, and adding lettering. Blossom on!
Here is my Lily.



Greetings to you.

Hello to you -
For your information, here are ny credentials that I feel qualify me to help you, as a Teacher!

 Many decades of concentrated Professional Photography have resulted in my being included in 5 National and State Official Archives and Histories, including:

        1.  University of Mississippi, Special Collections Division. (alongside William Faulkner). 

        2.  United States Naval Aviation Midshipmen,  (alongside Neil Armstrong of Moon Fame).

        3.  Professional Photographers of America, History and Timeline, (alongside George Eastman, who founded Kodak).

        4.  State of Mississippi Department of Archives and History for 50 plus years of Military Reunion Photos.

        5. Professional Photographers of MS-AL Past President & National Award Winner for the Photographer who contributed the most to the profession.

 I welcome you to my Blog.

 In it I will show you how to make Great Photos almost every time.

 I spent a lifetime perfecting a "Style" and have put it on a 30 page CD, called the GAHS, "Golden Age Hollywood Style".  Now, admittedly, this CD is a Professional approach to Photography, and mostly consists of Portraits and Portrait Lighting, however, the principles will lead you straight to a system that you can apply constantly on any type Photo.

In order to be of the most help, I am offering you this CD for a modest One-Time-Price of $25.00.  It is worth far more than that and represents a Lifetime of experiments and actual productivity and achievement. Your BONUS, for which you will pay nothing, is an average of 2 Posts a week, sent by email directly to you, indefinitely, featuring all types of new and proven ideas for producing exciting photographs. Also, there will be one lesser detailed Post each week on the Blog for the public. It will be just the "Tip of the Iceberg", as the "Two Emails-a-week" ones really get into the real "Tricks of the Trade". We are almost 18 years into Digital Photography and I was fortunate to be able to teach Digital Photography and Photoshop in college for several years.

I look forward to many nice Photographic experiences with you.

Below is a sample of how great Photography is Timeless and Priceless.

This photograph was taken 50 years ago and

appeared in the Beauty Section of the University of Mississippi 1962 Yearbook.

To contact me by email: robertalex@comcast.net